Prague Day 1

Czech Republic

I arrived in Prague after dark, and didn’t see much of anything until the next day, aside from this amusing can of corn and beans at the grocery store.

 

I am amazed by the similarity of products available in supermarkets from one country to another. There are differences of course – baked goods vary slightly, different types and cuts of meat may be popular, each country has its own array of processed snacks and candy – but by and large, you can buy the same food in France, Germany, Spain, Ireland, Belgium, Luxembourg, Poland, and the Czech Republic. There is a pretty standard selection of common fruits and vegetables, meats, cheese, yogurt and milk, fresh breads and pastries (although we’ve been impressed by the quality of European supermarket breads!), canned vegetables, condiments, dry goods, wine and beer, and cookies and candy. That’s not even including South America, where I could find Oreos, white bread, and apples in any grocery store in Chile, Argentina, and Peru. For better or worse, supermarkets rule.

In the myriad cafés and restaurants of Prague, there are some tastier options. I started the day with breakfast near the town square – apple strudel, and cocoa with milk foam.

 

 

 

 

I wandered around the city, taking in the Lennon Wall, peacocks in a public park, the St. Vitrius cathedral with its stunning stained glass windows, and great views of the city from above.

 

I sampled some traditional gingerbread, too; thick, spiced cookies decorated with white icing.



The evening found us back in the town square, where I saw the famous astronomical clock and tried some local treats at the Christmas market...

 

...including trdelník, a pastry made by spiraling yeasted dough around a long rod, rolling it in sugar, and cooking it over hot coals until golden brown. 

  I unwound it little by little, savoring the soft, warm inner dough and the crunchy, cinnamon-y exterior as I wandered though the market.

After dark the lights were magical. I may have said it before, but Northern and Eastern Europeans do Christmas really, really well.

 

There were roasted chestnuts, my favorite winter treat, and giant hunks of pork roasting on spits. I watched as thick slices were carved off the slowly revolving meat and handed to waiting customers. It was tempting – those and the many types of sausages offered at the market smelled amazing.

 

Some of the most interesting things were yet to come. At a small brewery pub, I tried a Pilsner, one of the varieties of beer for which the Czech Republic is so famous. I’m generally not a fan of beer, but after trying a few here and in Poland, I could be converted. The hoppy taste is much milder and fades quickly to a yeasty, malty finish.

I’d heard of another interesting-sounding dish, aged cheese marinated in beer until soft and served with bread. I saw it on the menu at a pub and decided to give it a try.

It arrived with butter, a dollop of mustard, and a pile of raw onions. The waiter indicated that it should be eaten all together by making dramatic stirring motions with his arms. I followed his advice and assembled little bites of bread topped with a bit of cheese and onion, slathered in mustard, and garnished with thyme and paprika.

 It was delicious! The strong flavors in the cheese, onions, and mustard balanced well – the slight sweetness of the mustard softened the bite of the cheese, and the creaminess of the cheese moderated the harshness of the onions, which added freshness and crunch to the others. The thyme and paprika added a final layer of brightness, making each bite an explosion of Eastern European flavors.  

Once again, I was delighted and surprised by a city I'd known very little about.